We stayed at Petit Versailles in Beynac a few years ago and absolutely loved it. And the costs of excellent dining in this part of the world are about what you pay for a mediocre meal in Paris. It along with the restaurant at Esplanade introduced me to great multi course French meals. We have stayed at this one several times and eaten there half a dozen times it has changed hands since we last were there but their restaurant was one of the highlights of our trips to this region and I will try it again to see if the new owners are as good. The Esplanade had amazing views into the valley and the restaurant was memorable. We got their cheapest room - we had splurged the night before on a hotel with a view directly on to the Pont du Gard (this hotel is alas no longer in operation). We also stayed at this hotel in Domme with a stunning restaurant - one of our first great meals in France We once stayed at this small hotel/restaurant near Beynac and it was nice and the dinner was excellent - it has been many years so check more recent reviews: This is a great area - we have spent a week here twice and stopped on passing through several times for a few days. It is an area where lots of interesting chateaux, gardens and towns are quite close together and you should not miss a canoe trip on the Dordogne (not the Vezere) - the roads are narrow and traffic can be daunting during high season - so although sites are close, the drive time can be challenging. We also like to explore tiny remote villages and this was one: Included are some snapshots of a major market we visited in the region and our visit to a Night Market at the end of the season to eat with locals and dance under the stars. Here are a couple of trips we did from Cadouin: We love villages rather than towns and have stayed for a week in Limeuil several years ago and a few years ago in Cadouin. We loved the Lascaux cave reproduction and the original Font de Gaume cave, plus the prehistory museum at Les Eyzies. Sarlat is more than a village but well worth spending time in, especially on market days (two per week). The hilltop town of Domme is lovely with great views. Besides Beynac, Castelnaud is another very good castle nearby. These books, by transplanted American Martin Walker, provide a taste of Dordogne culture and food along with fun mysteries.Įdit: You also asked about castles, gardens and villages. I'm reading the latest Bruno novel now, The Shooting at Chateau Rock. We also enjoyed our fellow guests, both French and American. Fleury, who ran a restaurant in Paris before moving to the Dordogne, are charming hosts who speak enough English for an enjoyable conversation, especially if you have a little French to contribute. It's convenient by car to most of the sights in the area, and a short drive to Sarlat. We loved the early mornings with birdsong and mist over the river. The Beynac castle is just uphill, and "downtown" Beynac, with a few restaurants, is a short walk downhill. The rooms are upstairs in a big stone house, with a balcony overlooking the valley and several castles. We enjoyed five nights at Le Petit Versailles in Beynac several years ago. Martin Walker's fictional detective Bruno books will get you primed for your visit beyond your guidebooks. If you are athletic enough, the kayak paddle down the river is a great adventure-RS guidebook provides the details. Josephine Baker's Chateau Milandes is also worthwhile. Don't miss the Jardins de Marqueyssac for a garden experience and a great view on a clear day. The Dordogne is wonderful and you will have a great time no matter where you stay. La Roque Gageac and Beynac are picturesque but are villages with fewer dining choices. You may want something more in the countryside and I'm sure you will get plenty off suggestions. Sarlat fit the bill and La Lanterne was a lovely B & B a short walk to the action. We prefer a medium size town with shops and a choice of restaurants in walking distance so driving after dinner and wine is not an issue. You will have a great choice of accommodations and dining in the Dordogne.
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